7 Useful Camera Tricks for Nikon Shooters

7 Useful Camera Tricks for Nikon Shooters


Among the questions that come to us regularly, there is one that is recurrent: "What rifle scope would you advise me? Indeed, the optimal choice of a rifle scope is both personal and too multifactorial so we can to advise one in particular, and that even, disregarding any brand. The development in smart gadgets is evident, you can now even see the HD sunglasses, or hidden camera for sale with the most advanced features that can leave you surprisingly amazed.


Nikon introduces sophisticated new firing glasses, the MONARCH 5 range and two new PROSTAFF 7 models, designed to improve the accuracy of long range shots.


MONARCH 5 goggles offer a breathtaking 5x zoom that combines superior flexibility and increased accuracy over long distances. These are the first models to incorporate Nikon's advanced Bullet Drop Compensation (BDC) system, which not only compensates for ballistics, but also provides drift markers that allow the shooter to adjust his shot at a time depending on the distance and side winds. The optical system is equally impressive: the MONARCH 5 shooting glasses are equipped with Nikon's legendary ED (ultra-low dispersion) glass lenses, which reduce chromatic aberration and accentuate contrast. All lenses have been fully multilayered to optimize brightness and clarity.



The two new PROSTAFF 7 shooting glasses, which are both 5-20x50 SF models, offer the highest magnification in the PROSTAFF 7 range, and are ideally suited for long range shooting. They include an extensive range of elevation and drift settings to improve accuracy, an instantaneous zero return function for ease of use and a side wheel for effortless parallax correction. Full multi-coated lenses ensure clear, bright images and well-balanced colors, even in low-light conditions. Duplex and BDC reticle models are available.


Here are 7 useful camera tips for Nikon shooters


  1. The focal length:


  • The variables


By far the most common, they are useful if you want to have a variable target magnification depending on the various desired uses. With these, the shooter can adjust the magnification of the target he aims. It exits a variety of magnifications, depending on whether you are a hunter or sports shooter. Sniper rifles often use variables to adapt the shot to different distances farther than those of a normal shotgun.

 

 

  • The fixed

 

A little simpler than the variables but often brighter and more practical if the shooter knows exactly his range of reduced shooting distances. Here, there is no question of adjusting the magnification as you can do on the variables. Therefore, these glasses are only recommended for certain occasions and often for certain types of firearms.


  • Night vision goggles

 

Specialized, they can be combined or used in variable or fixed magnification depending on settings and circumstances. For example, for hunting at night or at times of the day when there is too little light to naturally see the target. Before choosing a night vision, you will need to make sure it is well worth it.

But what do the inscriptions on the telescope mean?

 

This is a good question to ask you because before you can choose a telescope, you will need to know what these figures really mean. As an example, what does 3-12 × 42 mean?


In this series, the 3 means that any image you look through this telescope appears three times closer to you than it would be to the naked eye. The 12th means the same thing. This means that you can see your target 12 times closer than with the naked eye. The last number, in this case, the 42, is the diameter of the lens in millimeters. The larger the diameter, the more light your telescope will be. If you see these numbers appear on the telescope, it is that you have to do at a variable focal length.


Ultimately, this means that you can choose a magnification of your target from 3 times to 12 times. In general, the larger the magnification range, the more expensive it will be.

In general, if you decrease the magnification of your telescope, your field of vision will increase. The difference in magnification can change the field of view drastically.

For example, if you use a 3-12 × 42, if the magnification is set to 3 then your field of view will be 100 meters. However, if your magnification was set to 12, your field of view would actually be decreased somewhere around 14 to 10 meters!

 

  1. Eye relief

 

You can never keep your eyes or forehead too close to the scope while shooting. The pullback caused by the force of the shot can easily cause you a black eye, and especially with powerful weapons, you will damage the orbit of the eye. The problem sometimes encountered is that the field of vision is too low quality and therefore, it does not allow good clearance distances ocular, thus forcing the shooter to move voluntarily closer to the bezel to get clear picture without the annoying black rings interfering.

 

Remember that the safety distance between the optics and your face or eye should be +/- 8 to 10 cm. unless you are aiming your scope at .22 with a slight decline, do not hesitate to test the scope in this regard before buying.


  1. The reticle

 

For the most part, the reticle is an option of preference, but there are actually various benefits to different reticles. For example, the classic cross-shaped reticle is simple and very effective. It also has many variants that adapt to specific needs. The fine black lines are useful for very accurate shooting. However, these black lines are lost in the dark early morning and dusk. This is why many people prefer illuminated reticles.

"Circle with point" crosshairs are the favorites of target shooters, as they can be perfectly matched with the target. German reticles are simpler than the traditional cross, and they are sometimes easier to use to see the lines without being cluttered with other frills. Then there are the more complex reticles dedicated to more tactical purposes such as the ball drop compensator, or the Mil Dot, for example. Personal preferences will be the determining factor but choosing the right crosshairs can certainly improve the accuracy of your shot.


  1. Adjustment possibilities

 

 

All goggles have settings such as drift (side adjustment - right here), altitude (vertical up and down adjustment), and many goggles for long range shooting also have a parallax adjustment (on the side left).

 

These dials move the position of the reticle, which in turn moves the point of impact of the ball. Many glasses claim to change the point of impact from 1/4 inch (1 inch = 25.4mm) per click to 100 meters. In reality, this is not always true even in all price ranges. That said, normally four drift clicks can move your shot a half inch or an inch and a half.

The best drift and elevation adjustments move 1/8 inch per click and have increased interest in high-precision and long-range tactical shooting but much less in big game hunting. I advise you a 1 / 8th bezel for all your precision shots.

 

For the parallax (definition) setting, most big game hunting models commonly used on medium to large targets are developed at the factory for distances of 150 to 175 meters. On the other hand, a telescope used to target small and / or long range targets over a specific distance must be able to be adjusted via the parallax adjustment. Otherwise, your target appears to be where it is not! This is called the parallax error and causes a shot in the wrong place. Needless to say, I advise you to have this option if you want to be precise for your shots at long distances as well as to opt for a setting 1 / 8th of an inch per click, as already said above.


  1. The tube

 

Most often, it is made from aerospace-grade aluminum and is very durable and much lighter than the steel tubes that were used in the past.

The higher the power of magnification, and at most, it takes light and therefore, the diameter of the lens must increase to be sufficiently bright. On most hunting glasses, the lens varies between 32mm and 50mm, and as a rule it will not be bigger than 50mm. The problem is that the larger the diameter of the lens, the more the telescope is heavy, expensive, and more difficult to mount on the rifle (need to have extra high rings, compensation rail, etc. . .).

The tube is often available in two diameters: 1 inch (25.4mm) more popular in America and 30mm (more in Europe). Normally, a 30mm diameter tube is supposed to let in more light. This remains to be demonstrated, however, which is undeniable is that a 30 mm tube is structurally beefier and allows greater latitude adjustment. This means that the reticle also has more room to move up and down and go from right to left.


  1. The weight

 

An often overlooked aspect when looking for the best bezel is weight. As we have just seen, a telescope can finally be quite heavy and this criterion could quickly become decisive if this additional weight makes your weapon becomes more difficult to carry or hold at arm's length! Therefore, for hunting, this weight could also affect the accuracy of your shot. Similarly, in the field, any overload becomes a handicap for the execution of your mission.

 

Not only is this aspect often overlooked, but many people think the exact opposite to say that the more the rifle is heavy, the more it is stable ... which is far from always true.

To return to the final choice of your telescope and before asking you this question, you should always ask for what end use or for what purpose (no pun intended) you need this telescope on your rifle?

 

The telescope you will buy must match closely the intended use. For example, a tactical rifle used in a combat environment or the police will not be equipped with the same telescope that can be used for long-range shooting at the target or to go hunting!


Indeed, for the hunt, a magnification between 1-5x and 4.5-14x is already a lot because you will have to privilege your field of vision rather than the magnification and know how to follow your game in movement without losing it of your field of vision and shooting. In addition, the majority of hunters shoot at less than 350 meters and therefore, the choice of huge magnification would not make sense.


And even in tactical use, frankly, you can ignore the Hollywood version of the sniper glasses, which are still too big, too heavy and with much too much magnification. Remember, until the 1980s, most snipers did very well on missions in magnification ranges from 3x to 10x. In fact, a maximum of 10x is really all that is needed for the purely tactical environment with a 0.308 rifle. You must have an excellent resolution and a clear picture.

 

You just need an enlargement that will allow you to make a shot in your area of ​​operation. Even for snipers, shooting at 800-1000 meters at 10x is not that difficult on fixed targets in most weather conditions.

 People tend to believe that the biggest magnification is the best. However, in reality, it is often rather an obstacle. In general, recommended magnifications range from 3.5 to 10 × 40 × 50 or 4.5 to 14 for purely tactical operations. In sniping short distance (at +/- 100m) a magnification of 5x or 6x is sufficient. For short-range military operations, the same is true.


In dual use, such as for hunting shots, civilian and casual sports, you will have a scope that offers a wide range of magnification that will allow a zoom for hunting and a longer range target shooting. But not too important at risk not to be able to hunt with her or not to know how to wear it on the ground. By cons, with a magnification too small, you will have to give up small targets.

So, it would be rather recommended to use a range of magnifications from 4.5 to 14 × 50 to 6.5 to 20 × 50 maximum. Again, a 3-10x can do it all, but many civilians want more magnification because they like to shoot at smaller targets (benchrest ...).

 

The 4.5-14x range will provide visibility in most normal applications while preserving the field of view necessary for longer-range use. This range offers a perfect compromise for the precision civilian shooter who can hunt deer in the woods and shoot targets from 50cm to 500 meters or on a large target in the 1000 meters.

 

Small note: if you can "fart" a target of 10 inches with 0.308 to 1000 meters at 10x magnification, you can certainly do it at 14x ;-)

 

For target shooting, depending on distances to the target, we can recommend magnifications of 8.5 6.5-20x-x25x. That said, these magnifications do not really have their place in the tactical environment unless they are mounted on a 0.338 Lapua or a .50 caliber for very long range shots but hey, civilians continue to insist on their mounting on rifles with which they will never shoot more than 500 meters!

 What few people are aware of is that the more magnification is important, the more the "shake" and the mirage effect will also be important. In fact, the smallest movement or a heartbeat or a high heart rate and poor breath control

you will inevitably cause an important "shake" and inconstancy that will obey your group!

 

Therefore, I maintain that it is not useful to go beyond a magnification of more than 25x. The very large magnifications (30X ... 50X) are intended mainly for the Benchrest competition 100-300 meters and more or, for the shooters having problems of sight.


7. The choice of a brand

 

 

This question is obviously left to personal preference but it is a fact that some brands are of superior quality to others. If you have experience, you probably know the marks that seasoned shooters tend to prefer. However, if you are a beginner shooter, I advise you to ask for the advice and recommendations of your gunsmith as well as those of your friends who hunt or shoot for a while or to members of your shooting club.

 

Do not be afraid to pay a little more for better quality if you do not want to have to repair your rifle scope or replace it regularly. Be that as it may, it will be necessary to be attentive to the quality of the optics itself and in particular, that of the objective.


A conventional riflescope contains about eight lenses. The quality of the glass itself, the care with which it was crushed and shaped, and the quality of the coating that has been applied to it largely determine the quality of a bezel.


Ditto with regard to the maximum magnification, you will find that set to the maximum, one will appear more "milky" than the other. Indeed, the difference in image quality is surprising, and undoubtedly, by putting the price, you will get your money.

As an example and still in this price range, the Bushnell and Swarovski have lens coatings that disperse the water into droplets so small that they do not affect your visibility, thus allowing you to aim for a shower or thick fog. That said, as we said, above, there will be no picture as to the quality of the image rendered between the two brands!



 Conclusion


Better low-light images seem to be the new mantra of most major camera manufacturers. Nikon S9100 claims the new fact "... pocket shot at night as easy as taking day shots" (from the Nikon USA website). Does the S9100 make doing nighttime photography as easy as taking pictures during the day? Sure yes, but the question here is really important - does the night photo generate as good as his daytime photos? The answer Consumers have demanded better low-light performance from P & S digicams for a very long time and camera makers seem to have finally begun to listen. Hopefully OEMs will quickly realize that the least expensive and most effective way to improve low-light performance is the installation of larger sensors. Other things being equal, more pixels have better light collection capacity than smaller pixels.


Serious shooters may complain that the lack of manual exposure options S9100 compromises creative use of the camera and this is a valid argument. User input into the S9100's exposure process is pretty much limited to tweaking clear / dark by the Exposure Compensation mode.

is no.

Consumers have demanded better low-light performance from P & S digicams for a very long time and camera makers seem to have finally begun to listen. Hopefully OEMs will quickly realize that the least expensive and most effective way to improve low-light performance is the installation of larger sensors. Other things being equal, more pixels have better light collection capacity than smaller pixels.


Serious shooters may complain that the lack of manual exposure options S9100 compromises creative use of the camera and this is a valid argument. User input into the S9100's exposure process is pretty much limited to tweaking clear / dark by the Exposure Compensation mode.




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